The Virgin Islands are world renowned for their gorgeous white sand beaches, lush green mountainous islands and turquoise water. This group of islands in the Caribbean have long since been a haven for sailors, but in recent decades, tourist have put the islands on the map as a can’t miss destination. The islands are split into the “US Virgin Islands” (USVIs) and the “British Virgin Islands” (BVIs) and although they all operate surprisingly fluidly for being part of two separate nations, it does present some quirks for travelers.
The US Virgin Islands (St. Thomas, St. John, St. Croix and Water Island) are a US territory, which means that if you are an American, you don’t need a passport to travel these specific islands.
The British Virgin Islands (Tortola, Virgin Gorda, Jost Van Dyke, and Anegada) are a British Overseas Territory, if you are American, you WILL need a passport to travel to them. Since Covid, only a few charters are authorized and have clearance to go. These book way in advance.
Wherever your final destination, St. Thomas (USVI) is most people’s entry point into the Virgin Islands. There are flights to St. Croix and Tortola, but they’re often more expensive. From St. Thomas, it’s fairly easy to catch a ferry to any of the other islands, about a 20-30 minute ferry ride. This makes it relatively easy to hop between several different islands on one trip.
St. Thomas is a major cruise ship stop and it has made St. Thomas a certain kind of island. There’s expensive shopping, fancy resorts, a lot to do and can be very busy. Many businesses are only open on cruise ship days and the beaches, especially Magan’s Bay and Coki Point become very crowded when ships are at port. I check the port schedule when planning my itinerary to avoid the crowds when possible.
TOP BEACHES
Everyone has their own expectations of what a day in paradise looks like to them. I feel each beach has something unique and special to offer that makes it tough to rate them as a must see or best beach. It’s really going to depend on what you like and when in doubt, just visit them all.
Magan’s Bay: Picture perfect, white sand beach, tucked between two peninsulas, it’s truly a must see beach. Drakes Seat is an outlook on the way to Magan’s Bay where you will have a breathtaking view of the beach and neighboring islands. There is a small fee to enter Magan’s Bay Beach with chair rentals, concessions and restrooms available. Magans Bay Beach Bar offers a variety of food and awesome drinks. We arrived early morning, 9am and had the beach mostly to ourselves. We were able to spot sea turtles, sting ray and a variety of fish while snorkeling near the buoys. It is a very calm, relaxing beach with no rocks or sea grass, perfect for children to play. Be sure to grab some milkshakes on the way back from Famous Delight, they are amazing.
Coki Point Beach: Lively beach with locals, bar, rentals and awesome for snorkeling. Bring dog biscuits to feed the fish and you will be swimming in an aquarium in no time. Busier beach offering hair braiding, massages and you may smell cannabis. We arrived early and the beach was already semi busy with very limited parking. Coki is a smaller beach with a little sea grass during certain times of the year and some small pebbles. Walking into the water is like walking in a pool with a steady decline to the deep end. We had a great experience and enjoyed our day, but some may feel slightly uncomfortable with the lively, local vibe. Coki Point is located right next to Coral World Marine Park, it’s easy to make a day of visiting both places.
Brewer’s Bay: A hidden gem great for spotting sea turtles, watching the planes and searching for the perfect sea shell. No fee to enter, restrooms available, food trucks and no rental chairs. Lots of shade, clear calm water and lots of shells on the beach. Quiet beach, water shoes and snorkel gear recommended. There is a large distance from the tree line to water line making it great for kids to play and toss a ball. This beach is overlooked by many and hardly ever busy.
BEST THINGS TO DO
There are so many amazing ways to experience St Thomas, but getting out on the water is my favorite. From full day boat tours to sunset cruises there is something for everyone.
Seas the Day – Catamaran Snorkel Trip to St. John was the best day ever. Everyone’s day in paradise looks a little different, but for the six of us, we agreed this was the highlight of our trip. Our captain called to introduce herself and help plan out our unforgettable day on a private 50′ catamaran. From the moment we stepped onboard, we felt at home, safe, relaxed and ready for an adventure with Captain Rachel and First Mate, Caroline. To say they were amazing is an understatement. Highly professional, kind, knowledgeable and accommodating. The kids enjoyed unlimited sodas while we sipped on rum punch cruising to St. John. Snorkeling with sea turtles and tropical fish was amazing at Maho Bay and Lovango Cay. We hopped on the dingy and rode into Cruz Bay for an amazing lunch on the water and did a little shopping. When we returned to the catamaran, the kids enjoyed swimming and jumping in the water until it was time to head back to the dock. All the kids took the wheel for awhile and learned from our captain some valuable navigation skills. Our adventure for the day was a little higher priced than our other days in St. Thomas, but we booked for an experience and received an unforgettable day we will cherish forever.
Coral World Ocean Park offers unique experiences you can’t do everywhere. If swimming with dolphins or sea lions are on your bucket list, be sure to check out this little park. We swam with sea lions and it was a remarkable experience we will never forget. The park is older and small, but it has a lot to offer. You can watch the dolphins swim in the lagoon, visit the underwater aquarium, see small sharks, sea turtles and do many one of a kind experiences. Park admission is included with your dolphin or sea lion swim. Coki Beach is next door. You can walk over from Coral World, soak up some sun and snorkel.
If you are looking to do inshore or offshore fishing while visiting the island, be sure to check out Ocean Surfari. We were able to customize a private fishing trip and snorkel. This is a great company that donates a portion of sales to a non-profit organization that helps protect and preserve the Virgin Islands. Our Captain Jojo was amazing and patient with the kids. We caught lots of different fish and some we were able to keep. Our captain filleted them and a local restaurant cooked them for our dinner. Definitely an amazing day! It is customary to tip your captain upon return. Virgin Islands Ecotours has a lot to offer from kayaking, hiking and snorkeling. You can rent a kayak and explore on your own or book with a tour guide. Be ready for a workout!
ISLAND HOP
The virgin islands offer the perfect opportunity to island hop. With several islands within a short ferry ride, some make for the best day trip.
Water Island is the smallest of the four US Virgin Islands consisting of 492 acres. There is a ferry that leaves Crown Bay Marina costing about $15 per adult, $5 per child, round trip (cash only). Bring cash for parking also. The ferry leaves on the hour with a quick 15 minute ride across the bay. While you wait, grab breakfast at Tickles Dockside Pub or coffee and ice cream from Scoops and Brew. Once you arrive at Water Island you can hop on the shuttle bus to Honeymoon Beach or walk and explore at your leisure. Rachaels Rentals offers golf carts to explore the island starting at $55 per day. This was perfect for our family of six with children. These book fast, be sure to plan ahead and reserve yours. We explored Fort Segarra, Limestone Beach and Honeymoon Beach. Heidi’s Hilltop Hideaway is a must stop for lunch offering the best tacos with an amazing view. Heidi is a long time resident of the island, offering delicious meals, but be sure to bring cash. Plan to spend most of your time at Honeymoon beach where you can relax and enjoy the water. Dinghy’s Beach Bar offers chairs, umbrellas, kayaks, paddle boards and much more for a small fee. They also have a large menu and great drinks. We had the beach to ourselves that morning, but it quickly filled with guest throughout the day. Water Island was the perfect day trip added to our St. Thomas itinerary.
Take the car or people ferry from Red Hook to Cruz Bay and spend the day beach hopping in St John. There is two different car ferries, I would not prepay, you may get on the wrong one unknowingly and bring cash. There is a port fee collected by the VI government which has nothing to do with the ferry. There are many taxis available to take you to the beach if you don’t drive over. St John is home to the Virgin Islands National Park which protects more than half the island. You will instantly feel a different vibe from St John and may start planning your next vacation before you leave. The island offers the most beautiful beaches, historical sugar plantation ruins, salt ponds and nature. Trunk Bay is the most beautiful beach we have been to, small fee to enter with everything you need available. It is truly picture perfect and has an amazing snorkel trail. Cinnamon Bay is also breathtaking and a great place to spot deer roaming around. It is one of the most historic sites. You will see stone walls, mounds, and what was once the oldest standing building on St. John, destroyed by Hurricane Irma. Be respectful, do not climb, mark, or move anything on or near the ruins. You may feel a day trip is not enough for St John, but adding it to you St Thomas itinerary is a must.
There are three islands in the virgin islands named Buck Island. Buck Island National Wildlife Refuge is a 45 acre uninhabited island that offers great snorkeling and scuba diving two miles south of St. Thomas. Visit by boat and view the beautiful coral reef habitats and shipwreck.
Visiting St Croix during your St. Thomas trip is doable, but really needs to be a separate vacation. The ferry ride over is a little longer and can be rough. I would not recommend it for a day trip.
BEST RESTAURANTS
We don’t travel to eat at the best places or plan too much around food, but we do enjoy experiencing local cuisine and different atmospheres. All the food prices are slightly higher than in the states. We typically eat breakfast at our resort and dine out for lunch and dinner. Many restaurants add the tip to the bill, be sure to check. During hurricane season, many restaurants close, offer limited hours and or have limited staff. We did notice service at many places was very slow, often having to wait on drinks. It was mentioned covid and over worked, limited staff is the cause.
- Mamma’s Shack: Only open from 7am – 1pm, she offers the most amazing local food on the island. She operates out of a small shack in Yacht Haven Grande.
- Duffy’s Love Shack: This is a must, such a fun vibe. Duffy’s is located in a parking lot, offering great food, drinks and tunes. Perfect dinner spot after a fishing or catamaran trip in Red Hook area.
- Sunset Grill: Great spot to unwind after a long day. Beautiful view right on the water, great food and service. Perfect for couples or families offering a quiet atmosphere.
- Mirador by Chef Benny: Elegant style dining for couples, romantic feel. The food, drinks and service were outstanding.
- Mafolie Restaurant: Beautiful view, a classic in St Thomas. The food was good, offered a kids menu, service could use some improvements.
- Shoreline Bar & Grill: Fun place to grab lunch or dinner, watch the sea gulls and tarpon swim. Reasonably priced with good food and service.
- Blue 11: Amazing culinary experience!
- Old Farmhouse: Upscale dining, amazing food and service.
- Prime: Known for their tomahawk steak and beautiful view. No kids menu and very pricey.
What to Pack
Half the cloths you think you need, double the swim suits and triple the money. St Thomas is a casual island, fancy cloths are not required, but swim suit coverups are a must. Most restaurants have a no beach attire policy, meaning shorts and sundresses are appropriate. Be prepared to spend some money., food is expensive.
- Snorkel Gear: If you plan on doing lots of snorkeling, I would pack your own snorkel gear. You’ll save some money in the long run vs renting gear at every beach! Plus, some of the secluded beaches won’t have the option to rent gear. Inflatable life-vest are perfect for the timid swimmer or a inflatable pool noodle. Grab a backpack to store your gear in, it even has room for a tumbler. This makes it easy to head out to the beach and keep your needed gear in one place.
- Water Shoes: Because of the rocky surfaces in some of the beaches, water shoes will help you enter and exit the beaches. These worked great because they are so thin and don’t take up much room.
- Rash Guards: Rash guards are great for sun protection and half the price on amazon. You can buy more from your favorite restaurants and boat charters in the USVI! Check out the Men’s, Women’s and Kid’s.
- Sunscreen: To help protect your skin from the sun. Reef safe sunscreen is the law.
- GoPro: If you want to photograph the amazing underwater sea life during a swim, a Go Pro waterproof camera is a must! We also purchased a waterproof case and selfie stick.
- Cheaper Waterproof Camera: Great for capturing those underwater moments.
- Bug Repellent: Keep those bugs off. “No-See-Ums” tend to come out after sunset and though they are selective of who they bite, don’t let them ruin your vacation! Skin so soft is another proven repellent.
- Waterproof Phone Case: This is great to keep your phone dry while you enjoy the water. If you are looking for something larger to keep your valuables safe, check out these floating bags.
- Beach Blanket: This is a great option if you do not want to rent beach chairs. Folds up very small so you barely know you have it.
- Kids Beach Toys: Collapsable beach toys or skip balls will keep the kids busy and entertained while you soak up some sun and relax.
- First Aid Kit: You never know when you may cut your finger on a shell or step on something while playing at the beach. Be prepared!
- Beach Bag: Grab this bag and store everything above in it. I keep it packed so we are always ready for a beach day.
Where we Stayed
Marriott at Frenchman’s Cove was a nice, quiet getaway. Centrally located to everything we wanted to do. The kids loved the pool, especially the slide. We stayed in the Jost Van Dyke building on the third floor with easy access to the pool and beach. The view from our room was amazing.
We also stayed at Point Pleasant Resort which was rented through an airbnb. This was located on the east end of St. Thomas within walking distance to a few beaches and restaurants. It is a very hilly property, requiring a lot of walking if you do not have a car.
Car Rental or Taxi
We love to explore on our own and rented a car from Dexter Rental Car. The process was seamless. They knew when our flight was arriving and called the moment we stepped into the airport. We grabbed our luggage and met them outside for a quick ride to the office to sign our rental agreement. To expedite this process have a copy of your drivers license and auto insurance. At the end of our trip, they met us at the airport to pick up the car. Very simple process, easy to work with. Now, the roads in St Thomas can be a little intimidating and they drive on the left.
If you are not up for renting a car, you can get a taxi anywhere you want to go. This can get pricy if you are on the go a lot or have a large party. Many excursions will provide transportation for a fee as well.
